Greenwich to Ladywell

What an interesting and varied walk that was... Pam met us at Stratford – or maybe we met Pam at Stratford – on 10th October, and we took the DLR to Greenwich Cutty Sark where we began the walk.

Not unsurprisingly, the Cutty Sark was viewed on passing, as it is difficult to miss, and we soon entered Greenwich Park. I haven't done hills for a year and more, so it was with great relish that we were soon ascending the heights to Wolfe's Statue by the observatory, and using the opportunity to observe all the tourists observing all that is observable from there.

In Maidenstone GroveAfter strolling down an avenue of sweet chestnuts, with foragers busy trying to steal the nuts from the squirrels and indeed in one case feeding the chestnuts to the dog, we exited the park by way of a gate that led to a little lane between grand houses onto an edge of Blackheath. Pam told us how the heath in olden days had been the gathering place of various anti-governmental marches on London: Wat Tyler, William Cade and 40,000 Cornish-men to name two and include another 40,000. More little lanes and grand and small (but all doubtless unaffordable) houses followed, together with a conduit that once helped provide the Royal Naval Hospital with water, and a particular area of lovely Georgian and Victorian cottages around the (to me) intriguingly-named Maidenstone Grove. Sometimes there is something in a name and location which seems that it might say more than is evident, and a little research later showed that at least someone else had thought so too. It was beneath this area that a series of caverns had once been known and used for 'purposes', and nearby Point Hill may even have long ago had a ritual temple atop, maybe even dedicated to the Horned God, Cernunnos.

Peering at the RavensbourneWe descended – after going up and down a lot (remember, I haven't done hills for a while) – to the valley of the River Ravensbourne. I suppose, pedantically, it shouldn't be the River Ravensbourne – just the Raven's Bourne. Pam told us that the river got its name after Julius Caeser's troops nearly died of thirst when they invaded this far (presumably because they lost their way from the Thames and couldn't find a pub) but luckily one of the army happened to notice a raven going overhead with a bucket of water in its beak which it had got from the bourne and hence they were saved. This seems a bit far-fetched to me, but if Pam says so...

Anyway, the Ravensbourne at this point was a bit of a concrete gully, but Sue did spot a Grey Wagtail, so it's better than it looked, and it did look quite nice near downtown Lewisham where it has been landscaped a bit to enhance flow, help alleviate flooding, and look pretty.

On Hilly FieldsWe walked up from the river valley through suburban streets to emerge at Hilly Fields, a large open space which Pam told us had been saved from Victorian developers by the campaigner Octavia Hill. One of her newspaper articles was entitled “More Air for London”, which helps sum up things. Being 175 feet ASL, it is no surprise that we then walked down again – albeit the other side – to enter Brockley and Ladywell Cemeteries, opened within a month of each other in 1858 as part of the new wave of Victorian cemeteries, once divided by a wall but now comprising a considerable open space. The Brockley part seems to be a lot less managed – although still in use – and the Ladywell end more open and mown. Out of the cemetery, there was still more downhill, passing a house with a plaque which indicates the position of the Ladywell mineral spring. This, presumably, was “Our Lady's Well” from which the area took its name. These mineral springs were purported to offer healing properties, and this one was supposed to help with eye problems. The Ladywell Tavern, nearer to the heart of things, for some reason had a dog's head on its pub sign. I can't think of a connection, but anyway a short way beyond that was Ladywell Station and the connection there was to Charing Cross.

Thanks to Pam for another thrilling instalment of the Green London Way series, and to Amina, Fozi, Fred, Jill, Lynne, and Sue for the company.

Paul Ferris, 10th October 2015